驾驭乌尼莫克----男人的尊严 第十六期 “U”与导弹

1234567i

朋友“Bill Caid ”不仅爱好、而且熟悉乌尼莫克，他把改造乌尼莫克视为男人的尊严，以下，分期介绍他修理乌尼莫克的情形，这是他的“博克”，是英文（不多），大量的情景图片或许会引起各位的兴趣。

     另外，有关“Bill Caid ”与乌尼莫克的一些生活经历和大量的情景图片也会陆续登上来，供大家欣赏。

(虽译成中文为好，但对改造的细部专业上力不从心，只好原文刊登)

                        Unimog 1300L引擎的改造

第一期（一）：

          Unimog 1300L Engine Rebuild/Replacement

The Experience These photos were "lost" for quite awhile until I found them under the wrong folder on the computer. My 1300L Unimog suffered an engine failure and these photos describe the removal of the motor and installation of a brand-new crate motor from Mercedes-Benz in Germany. This effort was big and spanned about 6 months all told. The failure happened in December 1998 and the truck was finally ready to roll the last day of May 1999.

The photos below are what we saw.

The head was taken off the motor while the block was still in the truck. The shot above was taken from underneath the head as it was hanging from the engine hoist.

The head is a beefy chunk of meat. I would hate to have it fall on my foot.

The truck frame, sans engine.

Houston, we have a problem. Note that the #5 and #6 cylinders have deep scars. If you look closely, you can see the crack in the #5 cylinder (the one toward the bottom of the photo) that is in the web between the cylinders. This means either the block needs to be replaced or it needs to be re-sleeved. I opted for a new block.

Kai pulled the engine out. Above, Kathleen inspects the inside of the cylinders.

Kai examines the head. Note the valve cover on the bench at the bottom of the photo.

The ass-end of the motor was dripping oil through the rear main seal. Not a good sign. But, since the block is going to be replaced anyway, it is just making a mess.

The clutch, too, has seen its better days. Soon, it will be off to the shop to be re-done as well.

Note the oil in the bell housing and the scars on the flywheel.

We waited from December to May to get the full set of parts and the correct block as a earlier model, non-turbocharger rated block was first shipped. Note the part number below the machined surface for the air pump.

This is the block after it was first uncrated and unwrapped.

We had the old head inspected and found some cracks which required a new head and the gasket kit as well.

To protect the new motor, a pre-luber was also installed.

The turbocharger was removed and re-built.

The old water pump was deemed serviceable and was therefore used in the new installation.

The turbocharger-rated block has pistons with depressions in the center to improve efficiency.

The piston for the air compressor fits to the cam shaft.

The original equipment belt-driven air compressor was one of the first things to fail on my truck and had been replaced with a cam-actuated, block mounted compressor.

The new head looked nice and clean before the injectors and associated plumbing was installed.

The head is mounted on the block.1

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-12-19 09:29 编辑 ]

1234567i

第一期（二）：

A view of the underside of the block, looking up.

The air compressor is now mounted.

Another view of the head after attachment to the block.

Injection pump was then attached followed by the priming pump.

Injectors were installed.

The pan was installed along with the drain line for the pre-luber.

Kathleen assists Kai in getting the harmonic balancer correctly torqued.

A side view of the mostly-completed assembly.

The engine is ready for attachment of the clutch assembly.

Newly rebuilt clutch assembly.

After the clutch and bell housing were added, the engine was taken out for a new paint job.

The cab on the truck was tilted again to allow reinstallation of the completed engine.

The engine hoist did a fine job of lifting and installing the block in the frame.

The front side with belts attached.

In progress, but nearly completed.

Lowering the cab. Note the shift levers on the platform.

The finished product ready for a road test.

Yow!! This was the biggest and most complex mechanical task that I have ever been associated with. Kai did 99.99% of the work and it was done right the first time. I question whether I could have done this task assuming I elected to do so. But, as Clint Eastwood said in "Magnum Force", "....a man's got to know his limitations". True enough.

Thanks to Kai for his hard work and a job well done.

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-10-30 05:18 编辑 ]

598157178

乌尼莫克的沙发！

天蓝图腾

1234567i

Bill Caid 是1996年买的Unimog 1300L，当时买的是二手车，随后几年他相继对Unimog 1300L 引擎和车桥部分进行了改造，所谓改造可以认为是大修吧，他感到非常的自豪和满足。

                        Unimog 1300L车桥的改造

第二期（一）：

The Event When I bought my Unimog model 1300L, it had had a hard life.  My unit was not an ex-military truck, but rather had seen civilian service as an off road cargo hauler (explosives and seismophones for a geophysical exploration company).  One of the previous owners, of which there were at least 3, "submarined" the truck and got water in the portal axels and drive line.  After sitting for extended periods, the rust finally took it's toll.  Eventually, the wear and rust pitting got so bad that the truck would grind as you drove it at low speed.  Of course, you could only hear it at low speed due to the tire noise.  The damage was building and eventually, it would have to be replaced.  One other issue bothered me and that was the truck's inability to hit 60 mph due to low gearing.  The plan was to kill 2 birds with one stone.  Master mechanic Kai Serrano would replace the ring and pinon gears and we would replace them with a higher ratio, thereby giving me additional top end.  It was a good plan, although the gear sets were viciously expensive ($3K a pair or something obscene like that).  And of course, you need new bearings, seals, etc so the actual price was much, much higher.  The photos below describe the process of changing the gears and detail the intense damage that was present in the rear gear set..

Removing the wheel hub and draining the oil in the hub.

Separating the axle/torque tube assembly from the transmission.

Torque tube housing separated from the transmission housing.  Note joint in center.

Kai removes drive shaft from torque tube with pan to catch oilt.

Unit fully separated from truck.

Note the severe scarring on the pinion.  These were deep.

The oil had turned to peanut butter, probably from the heat of friction.

Looking into differential pumpkin: note scarring on the gear faces.

Dirty, damaged parts.   The whole thing is hosed.

Trying to remove the grease from the parts, it was so thick you had to chip it off.

Inside the gear housing, more peanut butter.

New ring and pinion.  These are a matched set.

Note damaged inside housing from wearing gears.

Old versus new spide gears.  Note deeply grooved end plate.

Dogs on the diff-lock.  These are deep and strong.

New, clean parts ready to be installed.

Carrier and associated parts.

3 of four spider gears in place.

Checking the pre-load on the bearings .

Checking the unimog manual for information on gear allignment.

Installing drain plug on torque tube to prevent this from happening again.

One of the old wheel gears -- note the wear groove in the bearing race.  This gear is hosed.

The worn bearing race allowed the wheel to droop cutting path in the housing on right.

Worksheet for checking the depth of the pinion gear in the housing

Insuring the depth of the bearings.

Finished assembly, ready for checking

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-4 04:24 编辑 ]

1234567i

第二期（二）：

Checking the "gear wipe pattern" with white marking grease.  Note the black stripe in the white area, this is the actual contact zone.  This one is per the specifications and the manual examples.

Using feeler guage to measure gear depths.

Rechecking the seating.  Too deep.

This one is too shallow.

Wipe pattern on the ring gear.  Right in the center.

Using assembly tool to protect spline ends of unit before inserting into the torque tube.

Insertion of assembly into torque tube nearly complete.

After that much fun on the rear, the only thing to do is the front.

Disassembly of the front is a much bigger deal due to the steering.

This is the used front pinion -- not the smooth polish as opposed to the scarring on the rear pinion.

Disassembly of the front differential.

Using the press to reassemble the unit.

Front unit ready for checking.

Completed front hub unit with drive shaft.

Completing installation of the hub unit.

Inspecting wheel gear bearings.  One of the balls was trashed (bottom center).

Final hub assembly ready for installation.  Clean and pretty.

The finished product.

This was a ton of work spanning many weeks and many, many thousands of dollars of parts and labor.  Kai did a great job and the repair is still in service today.  This sort of thing is not for the feint of heart or checkbook.

兵佳

老狼

好贴!!顶一个

nhhf

把文字翻译一下更好

1234567i

第三期 见下一页

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-3 06:35 编辑 ]

1234567i

                        车轮轮毂修理
第三期 (一)

We had suffered a catastrophic failure of our driver's side rear wheel hub. The repairs were involved and spanned several days as we waited for parts and did the things necessary to prepare for the re-assembly and installation of the new hub. In the end, we would discover that the damage was much more severe than originally thought and it was only through the help of a number of individuals that we were able to get back on the road. Thank you Kai, Mark, Rob, Ben, Jason, and Jim. The photos below are what we saw.

Mark Mitchell was kind enough to send me the relevant pages from the 1300L shop manual to provide me guidance in the repairs. I had to review these a number of times before getting the gist of what was required. Plus, the manual does not "tell all" and there is a bit of "in between the lines" interpretation that is required to do the correct actions.

Ben works at a local car dealership in Helena, so he took my old hub casting and had it steam cleaned. Sadly, I did not know what to look for and would only later determine that there was terminal damage to the casting that would require a full replacement.

Rob Pickering busted his hump getting me replacement parts and ended up taking apart 6 axle sets to find one that was the correct configuration. He put the gears and bearings into a box and shipped it overnight to me at Ben's in Helena.

Several components were used and while they had some wear and tear, they would likely get me back to San Diego. The surface above is the race for the roller bearings and has several pits. Eventually, this will cause the assembly to fail, but hopefully not before we get home. In the end, this will have to be replaced as it will surely fail at the worst possible time. They ALWAYS do.

The deep groove ball bearings had small blemishes, but should be serviceable.

The bad news. Upon cleaning and subsequent inspection, I discovered that the large bearing on the wheel gear had fused to the gear and the bearing had spun inside the casting wearing a deep grove in the casting and rendering it scrap. The shiny surface above should be smooth and flat, but now it has a groove and a lip. Rob was able to find an appropriate casting and sent it overnight as well.

The new casting cleaned and ready to go.

The first step is to measure the casting, the axle housing and the bearings to determine if shims are needed.

Writing things down and taking notes is a good thing, particularly if you have CRS disease like me. In the end, the measurement and calculations showed that no shims were needed on either bearing pocket.

Greasing needle bearing for driver gear prior to installation into case.

Bearing tapped into place with a plastic mallet.

Packing the inner wheel gear with grease prior to installation.

Easy does it on this one.

Seated, but the wheel gear still has to be pushed through the bearing.

Installing the outer roller bearings. Note the plastic retainer on the rollers that will naturally come off as the bearing is pressed into place. Don't make the mistake of pulling the retainer too soon as you will have a hand full of rollers on the floor! I did not do this, but I was advised that it would be a bad thing to do.

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-3 06:37 编辑 ]

1234567i

第三期 (二) ：

Plastic retainer is off, bearing is nearly fully seated.

Tightening the driver gear onto the axle shaft. I bent Ben's vice handle trying to get enough "bite" on that hardened shaft to meet the torque specification.

Axle-gear combo installed in axle housing. The bearing has been tapped into the housing, holding the combo in place for the next step.

Get it fully coated with grease prior to installation of the hub assembly.

The hub assembly was hoisted to the assembly using an engine hoist. The assembly is heavy and was somewhat difficult to mate correctly. Patience and a rubber mallet won in the end.

The array of bolts require to make the assembly possible. The long bolts hold the hub to the wheel and brake rotor.

Adding the brake calipers to the assembly. The lower bolt is a "body bolt" that holds the brakes on tightly. It was a bitch to get out, so I put anti-seize on it so I can disassemble it easily in a few weeks when the new gear arrives.

Getting close. The stone protection on the back of the wheel has been added. Next comes the rotor and the wheel hub.

It was a bit tricky to get the hub, rotor, wear ring and gear all aligned, but I finally did it. Next, they have to be tightened to allow the wheel to be added for final tightening.

Yuck. Ben pointed out that the inside of the wheel was coated with the debris of the hub failure -- grease and burned oil as well as metal shards. I had to clean it with a scraper and it took about 30 minutes to get it adequately clean.

Those hub bolts have to be tight. Real tight. 320 Nm which is about 2800 inch-pounds. One of Ben's buddies lent us his high capacity torque wrench.

Out of the garage finally. I purchased an infrared thermometer to keep track of wheel temperatures and we set out to get a tank of diesel at the local station.

I was still not sure that the repair would hold, but in the end, we headed south on the freeway for a few miles and periodically checked the temperatures. All was normal, so we returned to the shop and raised the camper for the night.

This was a ton of work. It was not as complex as I first anticipated and has, in some respect, increased my confidence in being able to do "big" repairs on my truck. That said, we were sitting in Ben's garage for the better part of 2 weeks getting this accomplished. Most of the time was assessment and waiting for parts to arrive, but it was still 2 weeks. The actual repair actions took about 20 hours all told. I do not know the age of the bearing that failed. There was no advance warning, so if you were going to do a long expedition, like driving to Alaska, say, I would almost suggest doing a full replacement of all the wheel bearings and seals before the trip. That way, you would not have to be sitting by the side of the road in the Yukon waiting for help.
Special thanks again to Rob Pickering, Kai Serrano, Mark Mitchell and Jim Ince. And we are extremely grateful to Ben and Krista Palmer for sharing their home and shop with us to allow this repair to happen. Back at you guys, we owe you.

万能机器

             

1234567i

   与 U 车的朋友一起旅行

第四期

We had a heads-up about dates for MogFest, so we altered our trip plans to attend on our way back from our road trip. In the end, we had been out 66 days, so another few days of camping was no big deal. MogFest is the yearly SoCal meeting of Unimog enthusiasts. In addition to the "normal" Unimog folks, there were a number of Pinzgauers and other vehicles that attended. There were perhaps 120 folks that attended this 3 day event. I have attached attribution to those photos that I could, but if your name is not there, just remember that I have CRS disease and therefore cannot be held accountable. The photos below are what we saw.

Chas' super-clean 1250L.

Alan's FL70 tow vehicle. Very nice. Alan was the host for this event. Thanks, Alan, from all of us.

Alan's 406 trail tractor with my camper in the background.

A nice Volvo personnel carrier.

Mark's Altar-proven 1300L.

Ron's nice 416 with Alaskan Camper.

Terry's 416.

Kevin and Kirsten's 1300L.

Rob's 416 expedition camper with billion gallon fuel capacity.

Doug and Diane's 1300L with ambulance box.

Next morning, the group headed out for the hills. Above, Terry climbs a hill on the early part of the trail.

Kai's 416 in the lead.

Kevin and Kirsten await their turn at the hill.

The Pinzgauers and a VW Synchro were back in the pack.

Kai returns to herd the cattle, so to speak.

Dave's Supacat 6x6 carries a passenger.

Kevin finally gets a chance at the hill.

The group heads east. From the front: Kai, Terry, Alan and Kevin.

A nice 6x6 Pinz.

Matt and Nancy's Altar-proven 416.

The leaders stopped to regroup.

Once everyone was accounted for, we headed down the hill to the canyon mouth.

Trail Princess grabs a beer for the road.

We ascend another grade out of the canyon.

Note the folding and warping of the rocks. The Calico area was geologically active in the past and there are many faults.

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-6 06:05 编辑 ]

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    聚集
第五期

There is nothing on this planet that will do a "reset" faster than a trip to Glamis, California.  Glamis is the self-proclaimed "Sand Toy Capital of the World".  It is true.  Acres of motorhomes, tricked out jeeps, sand rails, quads, dirt bikes and every other kind of motorized vehicle known to man.  My buddy Kai Serrano organized a loose confederation of folks to go there in November.  All the invitees had Unimogs, with the exception of Mike Bennett from Fresno (a Toyota guy), and he came as a ride-along.  The photos below tell the story of motorized excess.
The Photos

My 1300L Unimog.

Kai's (now sold) 406 Unimog.

The Domino's Pizza 406 Unimog.

A sea of trucks, jeeps and quads.

More people than you can imagine; mostly hanging and getting drunk.

Quads and bikes going up competition hill.  Note the sand trails. Drunk people on quads.

A sea of people and high priced hardware.

Frenetic activity.

Kathleen takes it all in.

Bill and Kai watch the action and have a few cold ones.

The mogs line up for a group shot.

An odd vehicle encountered in the dunes.

Wimpy compared to the 1300.

Mike Bennett checks out the controls.

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-9 03:40 编辑 ]

1234567i

第六期             “ U”游峡谷

The Trip The Golden Spike trail is tough.  It is rated as a four plus trail and there are plenty of obstacles to get your attention.  It is within easy access of Moab from Potash road.  But, due to that fact, there are always unqualifiend folks on the trail.  Indeed on one trip, there was a roll with injuries requiring a helicopter evacuation.  Gladly, this time with our group, there were no "events".
The PhotosThe shots below are reduced from the output size of the digital camera to 700 pixels wide.

A meeting of mogs at the start.

My minimog.  1957 Unimog model 411.

Steep chute near the start of the trail.

Kai's 416 going up a steep section.

Dan Johnson's 404 double cab (doka) .

Kelvin Kerkowski ascends a steep ledge in the minimog on loan for the day.

We saw this fellow the previous year.  Custom 6x6 jeep, presumably pretty capable.

A group of jeepers that are ahead of us on the trail.

Bob Ragain's 404 on a steep section.

A natural cave visible from the trail.

My 1300L near the top.

Kai attacks the Golden Crack.

John Wessels in a 404 on the Golden Crack.  Note the frame flex and the rear tire in the air.

Kent's 404 on the Golden Crack.  This looks way scary.

A view of the Colorado River.

Traffic jam at the Golden Stairs.

Golden Stairs.

The 'spike is fun.  There were a ton of folks there when we were there, but if you go at Easter Jeep Safari, what did you expect?.

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-9 22:40 编辑 ]

风清扬草

hum

好帖!!!! 已收藏!!!!

passat2289

在俺看来U车，只是辆油耗奇大的拖拉机而已

1234567i

第七期 见下页      

[ 本帖最后由 1234567i 于 2008-11-12 04:19 编辑 ]