DREAM & GLORY 为澳新纵队1900公里大漠纵穿贺行。

ablackbird · 发表于 2012-6-18 17:32

A版，南极星，911911，老道，插里，DAVID等E族好汉D 日6月20日就要出发了，可庆可贺。

以梦想开始，以追逐，去奋斗；以光荣结束，去经历，去体验。

之后，我们谈笑风声，我们笑纳百川。

光荣与梦想，就在我们的身边。

来自故乡的可上九天揽月，可下五洋捉鳖，这是人类的光荣与梦想。

A版一行的大漠纵穿，是我们E族的光荣和梦想。

网上一LOCAL AUSSIE，7月1日起沿HIGH COUNTRY 的 ALPS 山脉独自1人 SNOW SHOE 徒步700公里，为忧郁和自杀倾向的病人募捐，这是我们社区的光荣与梦想。

更有，我又读到了老道的梦想：

1，和A版，911，南极星，插里去穿越1900公里的沙漠（6月20日）
2，和大厨，文胜去南极（2013年2月）
3，去四川爬4姑娘山（上二姐峰，但不知能上三妹否梦想）

4，争取在60岁时去攀登北极之巅（北美的最高峰麦金利峰 6195m）梦想

只要有了梦想，一切皆有可能。

祝你们的梦想成真，尽情享受。

[ 本帖最后由 ablackbird 于 2012-6-18 18:50 编辑 ]

ablackbird · 发表于 2012-6-18 17:42

特附上一篇短文，献给各位大侠和老道。你们一定能够成功。

我一朋友，在墨尔本当心理学医生的马来西亚人，今年50岁，前不久刚从北坡登上珠峰。在他前面登顶的是来自SOUTH MELBOURNE的一位67岁的女心理病医生

Mt- Everest- My climbing expedition to the top of the world, May 2012.

Nepal, land of the mystical abdominal snow yeti has always been a fascinating country. Nepal has a special blend of custom, people, and tribes sandwiched between the majestic high plains of Tibet, China and the culturally dynamic India. My first visit to Nepal 10 years ago was a personal challenge to myself. At that time, I was about to turn 40 years old, and I wanted to do something special and to try to push my limits. After some research, I managed to convince my wife; Jasmine, to come with me to trek the Khumbu ranges in Nepal. It was to be an 18days, 160km trek over high mountain passes. I have been camping and trekking all my youth days as a boy scout in the Malaysian scouting movement. But Nepal was my first high altitude mountain trekking experience (over 5400meters).

It was during this trip that I first saw the captivating view of Mount Everest with my own eyes after trekking 10 days. It was a humbling experience to see an enormous mountain towering over eight kilometers up into the sky. The dominating physical scale and enormity of Mt. Everest can easily make oneself seem insignificant and irrelevant. Yet, there is a captivating beauty, majesty and grace that Mt. Everest commands. Mt. Everest has captivated and charmed mountaineers for decades. For myself, since that first trip 10 years ago, I have since visited Nepal on seven other occasions.On each occasion, I have trekked further and climbed higher up into Mt.Everest.

I was born in Kuala Lumpur, and as a child lived and played in the natural forest reserve of Bukit Nanas, and attend one of the best schools at that time, St. John’s Primary and St. John’s Institution secondary school in Kuala Lumpur. In those days, as a Malaysian, it seems not the norm to aspire to climb high mountains then.

Now, I am a psychologist by training and practicing in Melbourne Australia. One of my professional tasks is to constantly challenge my patients and clients to extend and nurture their biological, social, psychological and spiritual growth systematically. As an advocate of this principle, I myself, apply this discipline accordingly. So,last year as I turned 50 years, I asked myself what would be a challenge to me;something that will get me out of my normal comfort zone and force me into some new experiences and learning mode. I do not know why, but climbing Mt. Everest after living half a century on earth sounded to me than, like the perfect and‘logical-reasonable’ next challenge of my life. So, after some further intensive soul-searching with my family, I applied to an international Everest expedition team to climb Mt. Everest and after verifying previous climbing qualification and experiences was accepted and given an expedition date in April 2012.

That was ten months ago. Since then, I have trained diligently and systematically for this Everest expedition. Over this period, I have run four marathon length [42.2km] races, and have officially participated in a Half-Iron man event. A half-iron man event involves a 2km swim, 80km cycle race and 21km ran,consecutively all in a day! This physical preparation to bring my half a century old body back to some endurance physique was one dimension of my quest to climb Mt.Everest. As the expedition date drew closer, my training grew more focused and purposeful.

The facts of my Mt. Everest expedition are;

I applied as a climbing member through the reputable international expedition team called SummitClimb. Over the past 20 years, they have organized and assisted over a hundred people to summit to Mt. Everest, both from the South side [Nepal] as well as the North side [Tibet, China side]. Besides, in recent years, I have got to know Dan Mazur well, a competent and renowned expedition leader working with SummitClimb.
The expedition dates were fixed on 6 April to 8 June 2012 (over 60days).
I have chosen to climb Mt.Everest from the Tibet, North side route. Traditionally, this is a harder and longer route with much more wind, and because of that it also attracts less climbers. Less climbers equates to less possible congestion on summit days, and so more safety.

A total of 16 expedition members gathered in Kathmandu on6April 2012. Of these 16 members, 5 booked to climb up to Advance base camp, 6to climb up to North Col and only 5 to attempt to summit Everest. We then traveled by coaches to Tibet up to Everest Base camp. From Everest base camp,we started out trek up to Advance base camp. From Advance base camp onwards, we have to start climbing with harnesses and snow boots crampons. From Tibet North side, the route to the summit of Everest travels thru Everest base camp(5100m), Interim Base camp (5600m), Advance Base camp (6500), North Col (7100),Camp 2 (7600m), Camp 3 (8300m) and then summit (8848m). It took us a total of about 55 days to summit and return safely to base camp. For the five of us who attempted to summit Everest, three of us were successful.
Some months ago, on learning that I was going to climb Everest,a friend asked me like in a quiz show, “What will you be bringing in your personal bag to the summit of Mt. Everest?” I did not have an answer for her at that time. Since then, I have considered and formulated a succinct reply. In my bag that I carried to the summit, I took three personal items only i.e., a3x2feet Malaysian flag, a 3x2 feet Australian flag, and a prayer book. I rationalized that for the past 50 years of my life, because I have lived in Malaysia for 25 years and another 25 years in Melbourne Australia, I should unfurl both flags at the summit. The prayer book was a reminder to me to say prayers for my friends and family and for the peace and unity for the entire humanity, whilst at the top of the world, on the summit of Mt.Everest.

For you the reader of this article and myself the author of this news, there reminds a valid question to address, “Why climb Mt. Everest?”Having now submitted Mt. Everest on the 26May 2012, at 1.00pm, I still do not have a valid, logical reply to why did I climb Mt. Everest. Why would people risk their live and suffer to the extreme of physical limitations to reach a‘summit’ that has no food, no water, no comfort, no luxury, no gold or valuables? This question seems perfectly logical and rational. However, the answer seems to extend beyond logic and reasoning. To me as a psychologist, it seems to transcend into a more fundamental spiritual quest for personal discovery, passion and reaching into the unknown human potentialities of oneself.
George Mallory was the first most famous climber to attempt to summit Everest from Tibet side in the 1920s. In 1923, when he was asked,“Why climb Mt. Everest?” his infamous reply was, “Because it (Mt.Everest) is there”. This reply has stood the test of time, and I too will have to concur to this reply.

What have I learned from climbing Mt. Everest? The past ten months of preparation has demanded a period of determined, focused and intense physical and psychological disciplined training. Then during the 55 days of expedition, tested and extended these physical and psychological arduous demands. There were moments in the expedition that transcend live above the earthly planes, into an experience of heavenly beauty and magnificence. These exhilarating experience are beyond my capacity to describe in written words and will forever be etched into my psyche and person. The view on the top of the world on the summit of Mt. Everest is unforgettable. For 30 minutes, I stood at the top of the world and the high mountains of the world and Himalayan ranges looked beautiful, graceful and perfect. I remember telling myself, what a beautiful world we live in, if only humanity appreciates it. And I hope this image will forever remind me to exercise grateful humility when facing before another human being.

George Bernard Shaw once wrote,“Life isn’t about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself.” This I am beginning to understand.

Author of this article can be contacted at beowlim@tpg.com.au.

Picture description

Picture 1- Everest Base camp, prayer flags and tents in the foreground, with view of Mt.Everest in the background

Picture 2- Everest base camp, with me +Masian flag, Everest in background

Picture 3- Climbing up to North Col (7100m)
Picture 4- Camping in Snow at North Col

·
Picture 5- Climbing from North Col to Camp 2;(yellow jacket- Lim Sim Beow, green jacket- Sherpa Tengzi)
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Picture 6- Camp 3 to Summit attempt.

[ 本帖最后由 ablackbird 于 2012-6-18 22:06 编辑 ]

ablackbird · 发表于 2012-6-18 18:04

心路历程：

Everest Update- 4 May 2012

It has taken us more than 15 days to do the first serious climb and necessaryacclimatisation. We
left for base camp to trek 7hrs to interim camp. Going from 5300m to 5800m.We stay in interim
camp for 3days. Then proceeded to go higher to Advance Base camp. We travelledthru the
'Magical Highway' with million of yrs old pinnacles. Hugh 10-30meter highconical structures,
remnants of Everest glacier on both side of our path. ABC is about 6300m.Very high and windy.
By now, our one task is to stay healthy [ie-not fall ill to headache, tummy-ache,sleep 6-10hr, not
swell up like a puffer-fish, not throw up, not get any illness, eh...,basically, try to stay ALIVE!]
Oxygen level is 48%, wind is a constant 20-40km, with gush of 60km. Chillfactor is minus
10degree Celsius at least, always. After 3 days of this condition at ABC,we attempted to climb
higher, because the wind abated a little.

Climb to North Col [7000m]. So far, this is the most technical and arduouspart of the expedition
[but there is more to come, of course]. It took me 11.30am-6.30pm to climbto North Col. Myself
and Jack and 2 sherpas were the first to arrive. Our last member, arrivedat 11.00pm. It is a
tough climb for any body, by any standard at 45% oxygen level and over400m high almost 70%
vertical ice walls. I was quite prepared for it because last year I climbedLhotse face to Camp 3
[7100m]- Nepal side. Climbing North Col [Tibet side] is quite similar toclimbing to Camp 3- Nepal
side. The view from North Col was magnificent, the sky was clear and thewind slight. But this
place is a very desolate patch of snow shelter about the size of a quarterof a football field. All
climbers try to bunker down on this patch of shelter.

We had the opportunity to stay up here for 2 nights, because the weatherwas cooperative. eg.
wind- 10-20km only, reasonable sunshine, and fresh snow fall or hale. Forthese 2days, we drank
as much fluid as we can- melted ice, ate 2minute noodles, muesli/energybar, tried to keep warm-
when all surrounded by snow/glacier, slept, and chatted with Jack [Switzerlandclimber- we
shared a tent]. On the 2nd day at North Col, we tried to climb higher.For 2 hrs, we climbed
maybe 100m, with wind blasting at 50km/hr. If it was not for the harness,crampons and ice-pick,
I could be blown to India that day. Quite scary! But Dan [expedition leader-I was right behind
him, clipped on to the safely rope!], called it 'good experience-trainingday'.

After these 2nights, we descend promptly. One day to get down from NorthCol to Advance Base
camp, then another full day to descent to Base camp [24km trek] on glaciermoraine. I have
been back to base camp for past few days, and resting/ recuperating fromthis 'first rotation'.

In theory, we need to go up higher 2 more time. 1) Once to camp 2 [7500]or camp 3 [7900m] to
sleep for a night or two, 2) then finally, the summit attempt. Whetherthat happens will depend on
many factors; many beyond our control. Eg. Wind, snow, if safety ropesare set-up in time by
Tibet-China mountaineering rope-fixing members, etc.
But, I am focus on just the next task ahead. Whether it happens or not.To climb to camp 2 or
camp 3. By right, we should be going up in another 2 days time. But thewind is blowing crazy,
and most expedition including ours have decided to ascent in another 5daystime. So, until then, it
is rest, eat, stay healthy, exercise patience and not get anxious abouttheoretical schedules.
When the mountain allow me to climb higher, I will proceed slowly then.

All this update is procedural. There are more I can update but later. Myreason to climb Everest is
a spiritual venture, which I will detail when I am back. Life is so muchmore than our day-to-day
activities. But even our day-to-day activities have so much more purposeand meaning if we
appreciate our individual uniqueness and collective being.

Ok, now for the mundane update. On the day I climbed North Col till I gotback to base camp is
5days. During those 5 days, each day demanded lots of exertion and energy.For the five nights
consecutively, I could not sleep! Each night after the strenuous dailyactivities, I was warm, not
hungry, hydrate, listening to ipod music, relaxed, BUT could not fall asleep,9pm-9am. Funny
thing was that during the day, I still have energy to climb. When I cameback to base camp, on
the 5th night, I took 2tablet of antihistamine to hopefully calm my systemdown. Even that was to
no avail. So, the next day, I took a long slow hike [8hrs] to the lowervillage- Rongbok Monastry,
from 4pm-12midnight. That did wonders. That night, I sleep from 12.30am-8.30am,without
waking once. Since then I am sleeping well. I guess my sleep system isnow reset, I hope.
Strange, these has not happen to me before.

Finally, last mundane update. The tips of all my fingers are numb 15% fromthe tip of the first
phalanges. Lack of oxygen circulation maybe.

My next update will be after my climb to camp 2 or camp3 and back.

Ps. Hope you all are well and be happy always. Live is a real blast, ifwe give it a chance.
Warm regards
Beow

oldestmonk · 发表于 2012-6-18 18:10

没有梦想，不是人生

ablackbird · 发表于 2012-6-18 18:12

Received April 17th 2012

Am at Nyalam-Tibet now. The ride here was OK. I was sleeping most ofthe way because did not sleep the night before.

Nyalam is suppose to mean 'Hell' becoz it rain+snow so often. So, the localtell us. The main street is 1km, with some shops here and there. Afterwalking up + down, I cannot find anything worth buying, so I will not bring anything back fromhell.

Nyalam is about 3500m, about the height of Namche, so we areacclimatisating here today. Wake- breakfast-talk,lunch-walk about-tea-dinner -sleep!That's all fine for me, for now. Starting slowly- slowly.I can get by with mandarin here abut only half of the peoplehere speak/understand mandarin. Internet shop cost 8y per hr.Exchange here is AUD1-Yuan6.

Tomorrow we go higher to Tinggri-tibet for another day or two.It has been snowing here on and off the whole day.

We starting in one of those government hotels + eating in a governmrestaurant. The food is pretty ok, I have been making a point to have 3xbowls to fatten up.They serving lots of fresh vegis too, I am very ok with that.It is also quickly getting cold here, so have to puton fleece and ski jackets now. I am sure it will get colder from here onwards.

OK, we have 5 people going up to summit;Dan + meJack- a russian + switzerland guy- with HP for past 20yr, activeregular skiier and climber, about 52yo. 2kid, 14, 16yo both girls? Stays in switzerland, somewhere.Jan-aussie women ,67 or 68yo, psychologist from south melb.Josect- women about 46yo, have not had a speak to her yet?4x sherpars- one been up everest 9x, another been up 7 times, the other2 I do not know yet.

Then, there is the rest of the members. We are 15 members and 4 sherpasfor now. Some going to base camp only, some to advance base camp and some to north col, and some to north col, then if they feel well will proceed to summit, etc. I know what I have to do and will take it easy.

The most important think is for me not to get too anxious and toprogress and proceed slowly. I am as fit of most members here and I just have to make sure I stay healthy, keep hygiene in top priority, be careful with food and water and I will be in top shape in the next 50days. We will see. I am not confident there is internet access from onward.

Tibet, at least, this part is pretty remote and facilities are gettingvisibly scarce. Otherwise, all is good.

Bye for now.